Welders Cutting Torch
Saturday, May 29th, 2010Welders Cutting Torch
Gas Welding "101" - Details to Help You Become a Successful Gas Welder
Gas Welding is alive and well!
* If you want to create artistic projects, many people will choose gas welding exclusively.
* At some point, most arc welders will want to, or NEED to use gas welding. I'll help you get started. Then YOU need lots of practice!
Seriously, practice is CRITICAL for running great beads.
* If you're doing artistic stuff, you'll want it to LOOK great.
* Eye-hand coordination gets tougher because you're doing more multi-tasking then Arc Welding.
Being able to DIRECTLY be shown details about how to do special jobs like gas welding is the BEST way to get started. (By WATCHING some else gas weld).
Here's the "scoop" for this article:
1) I'll give you a brief introduction to the gas welding world...
2) Then I'll hit on some safety tips...
3) Next the equipment itself...
4) Getting started:
* The flame.
* Adjustments.
* Angles.
5) Filler rod, tacking, the puddle, problem solving.
6) Brazing Tips.
INTRO:
* Gas welding in this page refers to oxygen-Acetylene Welding of metals.
* Your are actually WELDING two pieces of metal together, wheras brazing doesn't melt the parent material, just the material used to join the pieces.
* The torch itself needs to be able to melt the metals being used: filler rod, & "parent metals".
* Having an oxygen-Acetylene Torch around enables you to not only WELD, but also to cut the materials, heat & bend materials, & loosen tight-fitting materials via heating.
* Safety is paramount! You are working with extremely hot & potentially explosive materials!
SAFETY STUFF:
SERIOUSLY gas welding can really be fun, interesting, & profitable!
BUT:
* The tuned gas flame can exceed 6,000 F.
* Un-protected eyes can be fatigued & permanently harmed in a short time.
* The acetylene tank could explode under certain conditions: dropping, in a fire, from an arc or torch flame penetrating the casing, etc.
* The oxygen tank starts with 2000 PSI & can literally go like a rocket if the top valve assembly breaks off.
* Hitting something already burning with the high pressure torch valve can really accelerate the fire.
So, be careful!
GETTING STARTED:
The Flame:
* Set the gas and oxygen pressures MUCH lower than for cutting.
* Some gas setting charts call for the 02 & gas pressures to be the same as the tip size being used: tip size 1 = 1 PSI for gas & O2.
* Tip size 5 = 5 PSI for gas & O2, etc.
* I simplify things even farther! I just set both pressures at 10 PSI then crack the valves open at the Torch Handle to where I need them to be. Just start EASY & work them up to the capabilities of the tip. (or just do it as above).
* Also, tip sizes vary for the size metal being welded: Tip size 1 = 1/16" metal and tip size 5 = 1/4" as examples.
* It really isn't hard to figure out if the tip your using is too small or too big for the job. (Too small won't get everything hot enough, & too large will tend to blow everything away).
* Crack open the gas & light it right away.
* Crank up the gas till it separates from the tip then back it off.
* Hit the O2 until the Blue Flame first gets short & bright. This is a "neutral flame", used for most jobs.
Note that the Torch Tip & the filler rod should be about at a 45 degree angle.
*Too steep can make the penetration too deep & not pre-heat / too shallow can cause too little penetration.
Let's do it:
* Starting out, it can give you good practice to just put the flame on metal without a filler rod. This helps you get used to the process without worrying about the filler rod too.
* Heat the metal till there's a puddle, then begin moving the flame to create a bead.
* Get the blue part of the flame nearly touching the metal.
* Move in a circular or semi-circular fashion to make it into a bead.
* Aim the flame in the direction you're trying to make the bead. (forehand welding).
* Don't get ahead of the bead or it can make it not hot enough at the puddle.
* Do this for a few times before using a filler rod.
Introduce a filler rod: (usually the same diameter as the pieces that are being welded).
* start the same way as above and keep the rod at a 45 degree angle also.
* Dip the rod in the puddle frequently, but try not to heat the rod with the flame. (heat the puddle, not the rod).
* Practice running straight beads then work up to following curved paths. (some schools have you write your name with a gas welding bead).
THEN PRACTICE till you can run decent looking beads.
Note that you should be tacking pieces together at least at both ends of where you're welding, to prevent moving of the gap.
Problem solving:
* Your flame is fluctuating: gas pressure or supply may be low.
* Popping sound: Hot tip, plugged tip, pressure too high.
* Flame stops: 02 pressure high.
* Whistling noise & the flame backs up into the torch: (backfire), 02 or gas too low, the tip is clogged or dirty, or the tip touched the puddle.
BRAZING:
* Many things are similar about gas welding and brazing: but remember that with brazing you aren't melting the parent metal, just the brazing material (such as brass).
* The brass and the parent metal MUST be clean and hot enough for there to be a good joint. (Use flux! In a can, or coated rods).
* Think of soldering, if you don't get everything hot enough, it might come apart (or not be a good electrical connection).
Now GET BUSY PRACTICING!
This was a just a BRIEF description of the gas welding process.
Good luck to all you ladies & gents!
About the Author
I started working as a Journey-level welder for Weyerheauser Timber Company more than 20 years ago. That was the same year that I became a certified welder in Washington State.
I weld today because it's cool & interesting! If you can DREAM it, you can probably WELD it!
My website: http://www.arc-welding-and-beyond.com
The purpose of my website is to educate the beginning welder in ALL RELATED skill areas of welding: running great beads, designing, preparing, layout, finishing, & troubleshooting problems.
"Welding is more than just running beads!"
i found a 1977 mgb convertible in good shape dirt cheap. i have a small block ford engine that i am not using?
anyone have any experience doing a v-8 swap? i am a decent mechanic and can borrow any tool i might need,welder,torch. i saw this car and wondered if it was something that could be done without spending a ton of money. just trying to get some input on how hard it would be because i know 0 about these cars. can it be done without any major cutting or modifications?
Ford swap article:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Ford-5L-EFI-Installation.htm
Conversion parts:
http://www.aluminumv8.com/catalogpages/altigspark.htm
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